A labor agreement, covering more than 500 U.S. stores, would be the company’s first. Talks stalled last year over wages.

The city’s traditional cafes and bistros are staking out their cultural territory in an emerging duel against highly caffeinated upstarts serving up latte art.

The owners began their businesses with no college degrees and 100 percent grit. A visit from the TikTok food critic Keith Lee also helped.